Does your dog suddenly transform into a barking, lunging Tasmanian devil on walks? It's stressful for both of you. If this sounds familiar, you might have a reactive dog. Understanding what is a reactive dog is the first step to calmer walks. We'll explore the common triggers and give you actionable strategies to manage and modify this behavior. Let's turn those stressful walks into enjoyable outings.
What’s going on? How can you work through this reactive behavior with your companion? Will you ever be able to fully enjoy your neighborhood walks or embark on even more exciting adventures?
Turns out reactivity is a common behavior issue. (More than 80 percent of dogs have some sort of behavioral problem per a recent Forbes survey.) Here’s a look at a common dog reactivity chart to help you better track your canine companion’s emotions. Learning about the green, yellow, orange, and red reactivity zones will help you understand how your dog is feeling in a given moment and respond accordingly!
You’ll make reactivity training progress in no time.
While every living animal is constantly “reacting” to its environment — you might put on a sweatshirt when you notice you’re cold or head to open the door when you hear a knock — “reactive” is used in the dog training world to describe pets who overreact to stimuli in their environments.
Reactivity generally encompasses a range of undesirable aggressive or defensive behaviors (barking, growling, lunging, jumping, pulling, and so on) in situations that typically don’t warrant them in our minds (triggers are behaving normally in a non threatening way) but that are overwhelming or scary to our dogs.
Basically: Your puppy who woofs once or twice when startled? They wouldn’t be diagnosed with reactivity. One who barks, growls, and lunges at every other dog they see out on a walk, on the other hand? They would be considered reactive. Due to genetic instincts in distinct breeds, some types of dog might be more prone to reactivity than others.
High-energy breeds (especially those bred for herding work) like Australian shepherds, Australian cattle dogs, German shepherd dogs, and border collies often display signs of reactivity. Companion dog breeds might be less prone to reactivity. (Remember that ever dog is an individual, though—and many modern dogs are made up of several separate breeds. Even a popular breed for families, like the labrador retriever, can still struggle with unwanted behaviors.)
Aggressive behavior on leash can usually be identified as either fear-based leash reactivity or frustration-based leash reactivity.
While sometimes used interchangeably, reactivity and aggression are distinct. Reactivity stems from fear or anxiety, while aggression is a deliberate attempt to inflict harm. Think of a reactive dog as one who barks and lunges at a stranger out of fear, versus an aggressive dog who bites with the intention to cause pain. It's important to note that while reactivity can escalate into aggression if not addressed, understanding the underlying motivation is key to effective management and training.
It's important to understand that "reactivity" isn't a formal medical diagnosis, but rather a description of a dog's behavior. This behavior often manifests as excessive barking, lunging, or growling in response to specific triggers. Instead of thinking of reactivity as an illness, consider it more of an umbrella term covering a wide range of reactions.
Several factors can contribute to reactivity, including genetics, early experiences, and environment. Some breeds, like herding dogs, might be genetically predisposed to certain reactive behaviors. Negative experiences, such as trauma or lack of proper socialization during puppyhood, can also play a significant role. Even a dog's current environment and daily routine can influence their reactivity. For example, a dog who isn't getting enough exercise or mental stimulation might be more prone to reactive outbursts. A combination of fear, excitement, and frustration can all play a role. A well-adjusted dog will typically remain neutral in most situations, so if your dog is frequently reactive, it's worth exploring the potential underlying causes with a certified professional dog trainer. Finding safe and enriching spaces for your dog to explore, like the ones listed on Sniffspot, can also contribute to improved behavior and reduced reactivity.
Your dog’s trigger stimuli are the things that cause them to react. Dogs might become reactive to just about anything, so there’s no such thing as a comprehensive list. That said, some common triggers—for both frustration-based dog reactivity and fear-based dog reactivity—are:
Some dogs react to their triggers in all situations (for example, all dogs they see outside their home) while other dogs only react to more specific images (like pointy-eared dogs directly approaching them at a certain distance).
Causes of reactivity to specific triggers are broad. Some dogs have a negative experience during their critical socialization period. Others struggle with a genetic component. Sometimes reactivity appears without warning signs—in other dogs, reactive behaviour gradually builds over time. Every pup and situation is different.
Your dog’s reactivity threshold is the point where they fully react to their triggers. This when they actually start to display reactivity in obvious ways: When a dog is under threshold, they’re able to control their behaviors and be aware of their surroundings (even if they seem a little aroused, nervous, or on edge). When they’re over threshold, though, they’re reacting from fear or a predatory instinct.
The best way to work with a reactive dog is to keep them under threshold as much as possible. You don’t want to give them a chance to show their reactive behavior. This usually means working at a comfortable distance from the trigger where your dog knows it’s there but isn’t overwhelmed. This is called their critical distance or sub-threshold distance.
If you’re able to control the trigger’s intensity and duration, that can work too (reputable dog trainers note that this is just usually a little more difficult if you aren’t in a controlled training set up).
Put simply: You don’t want your reactive pup to have a reaction at all if possible! When a dog goes over threshold, it can take a few days — or even a full week — for their bodies to come down from the cortisol and adrenaline highs. It’s important to be extra conscious of any additional stressors during this period! (The ongoing suffering of reactivity, for both pups and owners, is real.)
This article addresses how to tell if your dog is at or above their threshold in a certain situation — their level of reactivity — and what to do to help them feel better.
For more information on dog reactivity in general, take a look at the other blogs in our Dog Reactivity category:
A key concept in managing reactivity is understanding your dog's "critical distance," sometimes called their "sub-threshold distance." This is the distance at which your dog can remain calm and under threshold in the presence of a trigger. Think of it as their personal bubble of comfort. Inside this bubble, they can process the stimulus without becoming overwhelmed and resorting to reactive behaviors.
Finding your dog's critical distance requires careful observation and a willingness to experiment. Start by identifying their common triggers—whether it's other dogs, people, or specific objects like cars or bikes. Then, in a controlled environment, gradually introduce your dog to the trigger at a distance where they show no signs of reactivity. This might involve using a long leash in a quiet park or observing their reactions through a window. If you're looking for a safe, controlled environment to work with your dog, consider booking a private Sniffspot.
As your dog remains calm, slowly decrease the distance to the trigger, closely monitoring their body language. Look for subtle signs of stress or anxiety, such as lip licking, yawning, whale eye (showing the whites of their eyes), or a tucked tail. The critical distance is the point just before these stress signals appear—the sweet spot where they're aware of the trigger but not yet overwhelmed by it.
This distance will vary depending on the trigger and the environment, so be prepared to adjust as needed. For example, a dog might tolerate a closer distance to another dog in a familiar, secure space than on a busy street. Understanding your dog's critical distance empowers you to prevent reactive episodes. By maintaining this distance, you avoid pushing your dog over their threshold, allowing them to stay calm and learn. This is essential for effective reactivity training, as it creates a positive learning environment where your dog can focus on building new associations with their triggers. For more tips on training a reactive dog, check out our list of top dog trainers.
As mentioned above, you want your dog to stay below threshold as much as possible! When in the green zone, your dog shouldn’t appear reactive at all — they’re able to think clearly and stay calm.
When under their reactivity threshold, your dog can typically:
Celebrate! Keep doing what you’re doing. A dog in the green zone of the reactivity chart is in a great mental headspace to learn and manage their emotional responses — you’re helping them build a new positive association with their triggers from a comfortable distance.
As your dog approaches their reactivity threshold, it’s important to pay attention to subtle body language signals. Not all stress is bad — some small amounts can even be helpful in the learning process, such as what’s described in the Yerkes-Dodson law — but you do not want to overdo it. Remember when we mentioned that it can take multiple days or even a week for your dog to fully come down after an intense reaction experience? Err on the side of caution when in doubt!
When approaching their threshold, your dog will likely:
If your dog is in the yellow zone, you can:
When your dog reaches the orange zone, two main things happen. The first is that they’re no longer able to learn effectively or build positive memories or associations with their triggers. All they’ll be able to remember is their stress! The second is that your dog is likely mere moments away from having a full-blown reaction with barking, lunging, growling, or their other typical reactive behaviors.
When your dog is in the orange zone, they:
If your dog is over threshold, you should follow these steps:
Your dog is in the red zone when they’re fully reacting to their triggers. At this point, your pup isn’t able to pay attention to you at all. It’s not that they’re ignoring you on purpose — they’re just so overwhelmed that it’s impossible to listen to your cues during their intense reaction.
We know it can be frustrating, but remember that your dog needs your help in this situation, not your judgment!
Avoid any form of punishment, as it will only worsen the reactivity. Your dog isn't misbehaving; they're experiencing an emotional overload. Punishment is harmful and ineffective when dealing with reactivity. It won’t teach your dog to make better choices, and it can damage your relationship and erode their trust in you. Remember, reactivity stems from underlying fear or anxiety. Aggression is a deliberate attempt to inflict harm, a different behavior entirely. When your dog is in the red zone of the dog reactivity chart, they’re so overwhelmed that it’s impossible for them to listen to your cues. They aren’t ignoring you; they physically and emotionally can’t process what you’re asking. Focus on creating a safe and positive experience for your dog, rather than resorting to punishment.
Understanding your dog’s threshold and avoiding reactive episodes will help you live a better life together. To train through your pup’s dog reactivity, you need to rehearse healthy habits at a safe distance, prevent excessive stress, and celebrate your progress over time! The entire reactive dog community is cheering for you.
When in doubt about your dog’s reactivity training? Reach out to a local force-free trainer for in-person guidance or a certified professional who offers virtual sessions to guide you from afar. Reactive dog trainers can help you with frustration-based reactivity, fear-based reactivity, and your own emotional responses as your dog’s person. Professional trainers are worth their weight in gold when it comes to behavioral problems!
Managing a reactive dog involves a combination of avoiding triggers and implementing training techniques. While you’re working on training, try to minimize exposure to known triggers as much as possible. This might involve adjusting your walking route to avoid busy streets or using window coverings to block visual stimuli. For example, if your dog reacts to other dogs and you know there’s a popular dog park on your typical route, consider taking a quieter side street instead. Small changes can make a big difference.
Training focuses on changing your dog's emotional response to triggers. Desensitization and counter-conditioning are common approaches. Start with the trigger at a distance where your dog remains calm—remember their critical distance?—and gradually decrease the distance while rewarding calm behavior. Praise, treats, or a favorite toy can all be effective rewards. Teaching an alternative behavior, like looking at you on cue, can also be highly effective, giving your dog something else to focus on besides their trigger. Look at me cues can be practiced in a variety of situations.
Creating a calming environment for your dog can significantly reduce their overall stress levels. This might include providing a safe space, like a crate or a quiet corner, using calming music or pheromones, and incorporating relaxation exercises into their routine. Regular mental and physical enrichment can also help channel their energy in positive ways. Consider puzzle toys, sniff walks (where your dog gets to follow their nose), or even a fun game of fetch at a safe, enclosed Sniffspot. Finding ways to help your dog relax at home can improve their overall well-being.
Working with a reactive dog requires patience, consistency, and realistic expectations. It's perfectly normal for a dog not to be friendly with everyone, and focusing on your dog's individual comfort level is key. Remember that you’re not alone in this journey! If you're struggling, don't hesitate to seek professional help. A certified professional dog trainer, veterinary behaviorist, or experienced veterinarian can provide personalized guidance and support tailored to your dog's specific needs. They can also help rule out any underlying medical conditions that might be contributing to the reactivity. Finding the right professional can make all the difference.
Sniffspot has an entire blog category dedicated to our wonderful companions who struggle with dog reactivity. (Our private dog parks were in large part designed specifically to accommodate these pups!)
There is so much misinformation out there, we want to make sure we only provide the highest quality information to our community. We have all of our articles reviewed by qualified, positive-only trainers.
This is the trainer that reviewed this article:
Shannon Finch
AnimalKind Training
M.Ed. Humane Education Karen Pryor Academy.
Certified Training Partner.
Certified Tellington TTouch and TTEAM Practitioner
Is my dog's reactivity my fault? It's easy to feel blamed for your dog's reactivity, but remember that many factors contribute to this behavior, including genetics, early experiences, and environment. Focus on understanding your dog's triggers and learning effective management strategies rather than dwelling on blame. Finding safe and enriching spaces for your dog, like those on Sniffspot, can be a positive step.
How can I tell the difference between reactivity and aggression? Reactivity is often rooted in fear or anxiety and is a heightened response to a perceived threat. Aggression, on the other hand, involves an intent to cause harm. A reactive dog might bark and lunge out of fear, while an aggressive dog will bite with the intention to injure. Reactivity can escalate into aggression if left unaddressed, so early intervention is key.
My dog only reacts in certain situations. Is that still considered reactivity? Yes. Reactivity isn't always consistent. Some dogs react to triggers in all situations, while others only react under specific circumstances, like when on a leash or in a new environment. Even occasional reactions are still considered reactivity and can benefit from training and management.
Will my reactive dog ever be "cured"? While some dogs may eventually stop reacting altogether, the goal of reactivity training is often management rather than a complete cure. Focus on helping your dog feel safe and comfortable in triggering situations, equipping them with coping mechanisms to better handle their emotional responses. Consistency and patience are key.
What if I've tried training and nothing seems to work? Don't give up! Reactivity training takes time and consistency. If you're struggling, consider consulting with a certified professional dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist. They can assess your dog's individual needs and develop a tailored training plan. They can also help identify any underlying medical conditions that might be contributing to the reactivity.
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* All Sniffspot articles are reviewed by certified trainers for quality, please see bottom of article for details *
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Does your dog suddenly transform into a barking, lunging Tasmanian devil on walks? It's stressful for both of you. If this sounds familiar, you might have a reactive dog. Understanding what is a reactive dog is the first step to calmer walks. We'll explore the common triggers and give you actionable strategies to manage and modify this behavior. Let's turn those stressful walks into enjoyable outings.
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* All Sniffspot articles are reviewed by certified trainers for quality, please see bottom of article for details *
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